Chicken Wings with Pepper Jam and Charred Onions

Wings need contrast as much as they need heat. Here the peppers cook down into a jammy glaze, the onions get blackened at the edges, and the final plate tastes more like a proper house specialty than bar food.

3 pounds chicken wings
3 peppers
2 onions
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 tablespoon honey or sugar
Neutral oil
Kosher salt
Black pepper

Heat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit and roast the wings on a rack or parchment-lined pan until browned and crisp, about 35 to 40 minutes.
While the wings roast, cook the peppers and one onion over high heat until charred in spots, then stir in vinegar and honey and cook until jammy.
Slice the remaining onion into wedges and char it in a hot skillet or under the broiler.
Toss the hot wings with the pepper jam until evenly coated.
Pile the wings onto a platter, scatter the charred onions over the top, and serve while the glaze is still glossy.

Do not glaze the wings early; the sauce should go on after the skin is already crisp.